As Head Sommelier and Venue Manager at Melbourne’s newest wine bar CIRCL, Paris-born Xavier Vigier is all about educating not overwhelming those who walk in the door and find a spot at his venue.
Best known for his epic career at Mornington Peninsula’s Ten Minutes by Tractor, and taking out the top gong for Australia’s Best Wine List in 2021, he is now bringing that winning formula to the CBD, introducing rare and hand curated wines for those keen to take the road less travelled and lean on his wine pow-wow.
“Being acknowledged for my contributions at Ten Minutes by Tractor has been immensely gratifying, and I am still astonished by the extent of the offering I developed,” says Xavier Vigier.
“Such recognition has established expectations for my work with wine lists and has undoubtedly motivated me to explore innovative approaches for the wine program at CIRCL,” he says.
“Reflecting on my journey, it’s clear that 2021 marked a pivotal moment. When we were awarded Australia’s Wine List of the Year in 2021, it resonated with me that this is what people truly desire, reinforcing my resolve to be in the city to have a greater influence on their wine experiences,” he says.
“These accolades have indeed driven me to strive for the ultimate wine experience in a restaurant setting. I am confident that this is not the end; there is still so much more to achieve.
Xavier Vigier talks to The Write Drop for our At The Bar series.
MY CITY
I reside in Melbourne, a city I deeply admire for its vibrant cultural scene. This dynamic hub provides an abundance of opportunities and experiences, making it an exciting place to be. Melbourne draws individuals from around the globe, appealing not only to the general public but also to a diverse workforce. The hospitality sector here is rich and varied, featuring numerous small, independent establishments that are eager to innovate. My attraction to Melbourne was also fuelled by its close proximity to beloved wine regions; having these options readily available greatly enhances the lifestyle that the city offers.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
The agnolotti at Scopri Restaurant in Carlton North and my favourite meal in Melbourne has to be O’my.
FAVOURITE BAR
I’m pretty simple when it comes to cocktails – give me a great Negroni and I’ll be happy. One of my favourite spots to drop in for a drink is Gimlet, at the bar and on my own.
DRINK THAT DESCRIBES YOU
2021 Domaine de Trevallon IGP Alpille Blanc – succulent, ripe fruit characters all in elegance, underpinned with a fine thread of minerality, salty goodness and textural finish.
BEST HANGOVER CURE
Orange juice and a long run.
BEST BAR IN THE WORLD
Noble Rot Wine Bar in London. Just incredible.
FAVOURITE WINE WITH FRIENDS
2012 Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Chateau des Ducs.
FAVOURITE WINERY
Go to Bindi in the Macedon Ranges to understand the philosophy behind Michael’s ethos and wines. To me, the winery is a standard bearer for Pinot Noir in Victoria. Then go for dinner at Bar Merenda in Daylesford!
WHY OPEN CIRCL
The development of CIRCL spanned two years, which, from an industry perspective, is a considerable time frame. Throughout this period, my team and I dedicated ourselves to comprehensively understanding and articulating the vision that guides our work. In essence, our goal is to empower Australians who enjoy dining out by providing them with knowledge and access to the diverse world of wine. Our approach diverges from conventional methods; we strive for diversity and intentionality in our wine program while maximising the selection of wines available by the glass. This philosophy enables our guests to explore wines at their own pace, allowing them to take charge of their dining experience.
While we are always available to assist, it’s noteworthy that the general public’s wine knowledge has significantly increased. By offering rare wines by the glass, we aim to lower barriers to entry, catering to a wider audience rather than just the elite.
This vision has been a personal passion of mine since my early days at Ten Minutes by Tractor. The positive reception of our offerings at that time inspired me to think on a grander scale. As dedicated hospitality professionals, our primary aspiration is to make a meaningful impact on people’s lives and perceptions.My motivation stems from transforming a scarcity mindset into one of abundance and generosity, driving me to continually strive for improvement.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR LOVE OF WINES AND WHERE IT COMES FROM
I was raised in an environment where wine was a constant presence at the dining table. Although my parents did not maintain a wine cellar, I fondly remember tasting my first Champagne at a young age. As I matured, wine became a means of connecting with others. My genuine passion for wine truly blossomed in my early 20’s while I travelled the globe. While working at Ormeggio at the Spit, the Head Sommelier at the time, Luke Collard, encouraged me to pursue the WSET certification, and from that point on, I embraced the journey wholeheartedly. In 2015, I embarked on my first role as a Sommelier in Sydney, and the relationships I built over the years—both with my colleagues and the public—have significantly deepened my enthusiasm for the industry.
FIVE WINES BY THE GLASS
2022 Garagiste Aligote from Mornington Peninsula. A grape variety we don’t see often outside of Burgundy which represents well the direction Australian winegrowers are taking away from the classics we all know. This variety is extremely versatile, matching well with many dishes.
2020 Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet Vieilles Vignes. A wine sold on an allocation basis we don’t see often. Having the opportunity to offer this by the glass allows the public to access wine they wouldn’t have the chance to drink at a reasonable price. Also, the style is contemporary, fresh and vibrant, away from the big oaky bomb.
2022 Vanguardist Rose. I love Michael’s wines for what it’s worth, similar to a good Provence Rosé with attractive fruits and gentle extraction.
2001 Mount Mary Quintet. A real icon in Australia showing all the glory of Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. There is almost no equal in the country and certainly a wine that rivals with its french counterparts.
2014 Thierry Allemand Cornas ‘Reynard’. Another stellar allocated wine the wine centric are all chasing. When Syrah gets to that level, I don’t really know what else you would want to drink to match your steak.
