With more than 20 years experience working in the hospitality industry from London to New York’s Eleven Madison Park, Glasgow-born culinary director Stephen Nairn has found place in Melbourne’s dining scene.
He has worked with Shannon Bennett at Vue de Monde and later with restaurateur Scott Pickett when he first landed in Melbourne a decade ago, and has spent the last few years with LK Hospitality as culinary director – managing a cool-list of restaurants including Yugen Tea Bar, Yugen and Omnia.
He’s the reason Yugen on Chapel Street, South Yarra has maintained its two hats earned at The Age Good Food Guide for two years running; concise precision and a passion for quality and craft is what drives his preference in the kitchen.
Stephen spoke to The Write Drop for our At The Bar series.
MY CITY
Glasgian-born, but Melbourne is now home.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
I once hosted a party on a balcony of an apartment where we had a 15-kilo pig on a spit smoke billowing out like a chimney. Most neighbours originally thought the building was on fire. After some sweet talking we brought them into the party. We ended up cooking the pig for about eight hours whilst celebrating a birthday. It took about five chefs to break down the pig, dress and present it. The final result was delicious chaos. I still get messages from friends asking when we are doing that again.
FAVOURITE BAR
Mount Erica Hotel in Prahran. For me it’s one of the best examples of a modern pub, a real pillar of the community. It’s perfect for a beer and watching a game but even better to sit and enjoy a meal in the bistro. Cracking service, delicious food but still fully remains as a pub. The fire in the winter roaring takes it to another level.
DRINK THAT DESCRIBES YOU
A pint of cold Stone & Wood, with a cheeky Caol Ila 12 YO Single Malt Scotch Whisky on the side. The cold Stone & Wood represents my passion for Australia, where the Caol Ila pays homage to my Scottish roots.
BEST HANGOVER CURE
“The potion” recipe created by my wife, Jenna. Two paracetamol, two ibuprofen and one Berocca before bed. This has saved me on many occasions.
BEST INTERSTATE BAR
I really enjoyed my visit to You Beauty in Bangalow, NSW with Matt Stone. Delicious creative food and the bar team has plenty of tasty wines – combined with friendly service, it was a cracking day out.
FAVOURITE WINE
I recently enjoyed a bottle of Bindi Block 5 Pinot Noir that was a delight.
FAVOURITE WINERY
Yarra Yering – I really enjoyed the tasting and it was great being able to buy some larger format bottles and back vintage afterwards.
Tell us about your role as Culinary Director and what you bring to the menu to keep it inspiring for diners
I am constantly trying to find new ingredients, build better relationships with growers and listen to our guests. From there I will coach my head chefs to find the right application for each ingredient. The search is never ending as it’s all about quality ingredients. Then we try to highlight the ingredient to let its true flavour shine.
What has your time in Melbourne working in our food scene taught you about what Melburnians love to eat.
That not every guest wants to be challenged. Some guests find the most pleasure in the dish being as simple as possible. So, knowing how to strike a balance I think is key. Also, to be aware of sharing style dishes – not every dish is a good sharing dish. This doesn’t make a dish better or worse, but being able to convey that and guide guests increases the satisfaction. I think Melburnians also have strong opinions on dishes linked to heritage and culture. I love that. I can’t tell you how many yarns I have had on the pass with super pumped guests who want to share with me how they like to cook certain ingredients. I love that. That’s the power of cooking, it brings people together.
How do we pair when we dine
I think there are always two ways with pairing. It doesn’t always need to be one strengthening the other’s particular characteristic. Sometimes I enjoy that the beverage is rounding out the dish, but setting me up for the next stage or part of the meal. I particularly enjoy things like brandies, cognacs and other interesting liquors as a transition for the next stage of the meal – mainly from main to dessert. It allows you to digest and enjoy the previous courses.
