When Ben Hirsch returned from a stint travelling overseas, he decided to join the family business. That was in 2018; and a few years later appointed chief winemaker Peter Mackay to bring the art of winemaking back at this Yarra Valley vineyard.
Hirsch Hill has since signed a new partnership with Qantas, marking a significant milestone as the business undergoes a considerable growth phase.
Ben Hirsch talks to The Write Drop for our At The Bar series – and shares some of the new wines on the market at Hirsch Hill he’s loving right now.
MY CITY
Born and raised in Melbourne’s north-eastern suburbs, I’ve come to appreciate the unmatched diversity this city has to offer. Melbourne is always buzzing with something new. Right now, it’s all about acai bowls and focaccias – and I’m here for it.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
Dry-aged T-Bone at Gimlet is seriously special. One of the best I’ve ever had.
FAVOURITE BAR
Poodle Bar & Bistro in Fitzroy. The fit out, courtyard and music make it a great vibe for a few drinks or dinner. Hard to find a quality whiskey sour, and Poodle Bar know what’s up.
BEST HANGOVER CURE
Fergbaker, Fergburger, Ferg’s Bar – all in Queenstown, NZ – in that order.
BEST INTERSTATE BAR
Kirra Beach Hotel is unreal – ripper spot after a day at Kirra Beach. Add Siblings Café in the program, and it’s a perfect day.
OVERSEAS BAR
Positano, Italy. One Fire Beach Club has a melon cutting ceremony. It’s the most bizarre yet fitting experience. Energy is off the charts.
FAVOURITE WINE
Patrick of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. Shout out to their marketing team as well – great branding.
FAVOURITE WINERY
Pt Leo Estate is one of the best in the world. Right at our doorstep in Melbourne, it’s a must-do experience. Architecture, art, food, wine, experience.
Tell us about your role at Hirsch Wine Group and what you bring to the family business?
I joined in 2018 after living overseas for a few years. Back then, we outsourced everything except maintaining our own vineyard. In 2021 (post-covid) I wanted to internalise more of our operations, and I decided that processing our winemaking in-house was the highest priority. This new age of the business was a resounding success, and we were able to invest in more internal services that we utilise for our company and for several boutique clients. Today, our company continues to manage our several brands, including Hirsch Hill, as well as our contracting business that covers winemaking, bottling and storage.
Tell us about appointing Peter Mackey as Chief winemaker?
Peter was the first person I employed when when we decided to take the business in a new direction, and bring back our winemaking processes in-house. He was recommended by someone I respected in the industry. He brought skills that I didn’t have. An experienced winemaker with decades of experience under his belt. Peter understood my vision and has been critical to our success. Today, he manages the production of our wine and our clients. He’s also involved in our growth projects and overall business strategy. He’s a key mind at the table when we’re discussing and navigating our next steps. Hiring Peter was one of the most important decisions I made, because without Pete, we wouldn’t be as successful as we are today without him.
What are your plans for the winery?
It’s about continuously improving and evolving our business everyday together. This wasn’t by design, but rather experience. There’s a plethora of opportunity in this industry, and the power of creativity within the business of the wine industry is really motivating. For example, we bought a chicken farm and we’re renovating it into a wine storage facility – you can’t persuade me to believe that’s not a fun project.
Why does running a family business and maintaining a legacy for it matter to you?
I grew up going to our family farm every weekend with my Dad. It’s where our horses and vineyards still stand today. My Uncle lived on the property and was very connected to the vineyard and the Hirsch Hill brand. I’ve had a front row seat throughout the entire journey. I understood how much our farm, and the brand meant to the family. My Uncle passed away in 2013, and it left a massive hole in our family. It put Hirsch Hill in the crossroads for a few years. When I got on board in 2018 and my baby face was able to sell our Pinot to a new bottle shop in a suburban area, the family loved it. Now, years later with the family business going through a successful period, I get the same feeling of pride doing a high-end deal as I did when I was able to sell a case of Pinot. It matters to me because I was able to resurrect something into success, while putting smiles on my Family’s face at the same time – Both of which give me an immense sense of pride.
WINES YOU LOVE AT HIRSCH AND WHY
Yarra Valley Cab Sauv doesn’t get the love it deserves. Our Cabernet Sauvignon at our Dixons Creek Vineyard is fantastic – Silky, delicious and abundance of flavour. We also have our Cabernet Franc block that my sister and Uncle planted around 20 years ago. Having a mature Cabernet Franc block that is produced with high-end winemaking techniques and boutique barrels, is super exciting. That’s one to watch for us – We’ve branded it ‘The Rover’.
