Sydney welcomes a new dining destination in Merrylands; this is where Middle Eastern dishes celebrate family heritage, culture and recipes that founder Jeremy Agha takes from his mother’s archive at his new restaurant IFTAR.
Agha brings a contemporary twist to classics like wood-fired Manoush and dials up the playful with a sombrero hat tip to Shawarma Tacos.
Jeremy Agha talks to The Write Drop for our At The Bar series.
Whether you’re pairing these Middle Eastern dishes with non-alcoholic beverages, beer or wine; he’s shares his recommendations with us.
MY CITY
Merrylands. I was born in a Newman St apartment in ’99, and it’s been home ever since. Every street, every corner, every familiar face feels like a part of me. I’m a product of the spice markets and the fruit shops—a product of the city that’s given me everything I could ever want.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
Everything Mum cooks—I’ve yet to find a chef who comes close.
FAVOURITE SPIRIT
Don Julio 1942. I’ve yet to encounter a problem that couldn’t be solved with a bit of ’42.
DRINK THAT DESCRIBES YOU
Double Espresso.
BEST HANGOVER CURE
Manoush, obviously.
BEST INTERSTATE BAR
Music Room, Melbourne.
OVERSEAS BAR
Bar Baker in Beirut, Lebanon—shout-out to Ameer and the team.
FAVOURITE WINE
1998 Chateau Musar Red.
FAVOURITE WINERY
Chateau Musar in Beirut, Lebanon.
NEXT DESTINATION
Bologna, Italy IFTAR – Specific.
How do you honour your family heritage through your dishes at IFTAR?
At Iftar, honouring my family heritage is at the heart of everything we do. Every dish on the menu is either a faithful tribute to my mother’s recipes or a contemporary reimagining of traditional Middle Eastern classics. These recipes serve as a living connection to my upbringing, each one carrying memories of family gatherings, the warmth of home, and the love my mother, Rita, poured into her cooking.
Dishes like Awarma and Egg on Manoush and Eggplant Fatteh are more than just food—they’re pieces of my childhood. I grew up watching my mother make Manoush, kneading dough from a recipe passed down through generations. That same dough, now over 50 years old, remains at the heart of what we serve. It grounds our menu in authenticity while allowing us to explore fresh, modern flavours.
What do these cherished recipes represent from your childhood?
These are the flavours of my childhood, rich with memories of my mother’s kitchen, family gatherings, and the warmth of home. Each dish tells a story of where I come from and the culture that shaped me.
How do we pair drinks with dishes at IFTAR
Wood-fired IFTAR Zaa’tar – matched with Levantine Sour.
Shawarma Tacos – we recommend Heaps Normal, Another Lager.
Wagyu Kofta Dumplings – pair with NON7 stewed cherry & coffee sparkling.
How did you work with designer Matt Woods to capture your vision for the restaurant’s interior design?
Matt Woods is a genius. He brought IFTAR to life with a three-point design brief: earthy tones, natural materials, and the Middle East. The rest is history.
