Melbourne city restaurant Bottega has long been part of the city’s modern-Italian footprint. Owner Denis Lucey has been working in hospitality since the ‘80s, and still as passionate as ever about the work he does at this classic eatery.
Denis spoke to The Write Drop for our At The Bar series.
MY CITY
Melbourne’s CBD is something really special. It’s rare for a city centre to have such a high residential population; people actually live here, and that gives it life beyond just office hours. The laneways, dining culture and overall energy are all so uniquely Melbourne. It’s well-designed easy to get around and packed with incredible bars, restaurants and experiences, all within reach. I live close by to the CBD, and I never take the convenience for granted.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
It has to be the fresh gravlax of ocean trout I had in the 1980s at Geoff Slattery’s King Street restaurant– a small, classic BYO restaurant where I started working when I returned to Melbourne from overseas. The flavour and texture of that dish were unforgettable; I’d never tasted anything like it. Geoff has always had this incredible respect for produce and simplicity. He let the ingredients speak for themselves and it left a big impression on me. That approach to food, clean, honest and ingredient-led, has stuck with me ever since.
FAVOURITE BAR
I’m a regular at The Alps, it’s just down the end of my street and I regularly go for a Negroni. It’s the drink I order at most of my favourite bars. The Alps also has a great wine list by the glass, interesting snacks and the communal table always has a buzz. It has a relaxed but lively atmosphere that keeps me coming back.
DRINK THAT DESCRIBES YOU
Wine, without question. I’m not much of a beer drinker, and while I do enjoy a Negroni, I always come back to wine. Usually, a pinot noir or a clean, well-balanced chardonnay. I think wine pairs more naturally with food, and that’s important to me. It’s classic, versatile and uncomplicated – which I’d like to think reflects a bit of my personality too.
BEST HANGOVER CURE
Water and lots of it, and the duck noodles at Luxsmith. That’s my go-to when I need something salty and delicious.
FAVOURITE INTERSTATE BAR
Fugazzi in Adelaide. The staff are amazing, warm and knowledgeable and the atmosphere is just spot on. The fit out by Studio Gram is also stunning. I especially love the façade, it’s what drew me in the first time.
OVERSEAS BAR
Roger Room in West Hollywood, LA. Small, intimate with interesting cocktails and a vibe that reminds me of Melbourne. It always plays great music and has an expert team, who are all smartly dressed. There is a real buzz about the space. It’s always full and for good reason.
FAVOURITE WINE
I recently enjoyed Paringa Estate Pinot Noir 2021 with my family back in Adelaide. We cooked a porchetta roast, which we had for lunch to celebrate my mum’s 90th birthday.
FAVOURITE WINERY
I don’t get out to wineries often, but I’ve always loved Jones Winery in Rutherglen. They make great wines and have a great little restaurant right next to the cellar door. Mandy Jones has always been a wonderful host, warm, knowledgeable and in my opinion, an underrated winemaker. I also have a soft spot for Rutherglen. I used to live there and owned Thousand Pound Wine Bar, so it’s a place that feels like home.
NEXT DESTINATION
Chicago – I’m heading there in a few days, my wife’s family lives there, so it’s a mix of catching up and exploring. We’re planning walking tours around South Chicago to soak up the history, plus visits to some amazing restaurants. S.K.Y Chicago is one of the places I’ll be returning to for modern American food, which is really well executed. We’re also taking the kids to a theme park in Ohio for some good school holiday fun.
Tell us about your role at Bottega
I like to think of myself as a generalist. I oversee the day-to-day at Bottega, but my involvement spans across many parts of the business, from shaping the menu and wine list to touching up paint work. I’m also deeply involved in maintaining the visual and stylistic integrity of the space. It’s all about continual refinement and ensuring everything we do stays true to our identity, while always looking for ways to elevate the experience.
How has the Australian palate for wine shifted? What’s popular in 2025
We’ve seen a definite shift toward lighter red styles at Bottega, local pinots, gamay and other softer, more aromatic varietals are certainly leading the way now. I also personally enjoy a lighter red, so I understand this shift in drinking style. But more broadly, there’s been an explosion in drink diversity. Craft beer, local gins and
vodkas, even small-batch whiskies, have reshaped the scene. Spirits and cocktails have really captured the younger generation and rather than transitioning to wine as they age, many are staying with those drinks. In the past, I’d look across the dining room and see a sea of wine glasses, now it’s a much broader mix – spritzes, negronis, craft beers, cocktails. Right now, cocktails are definitely having a moment. The rise of local distilleries like Four Pillars really opened the door for that. I think people find spirits more approachable and easier to choose between. That said, I still believe wine has its place. It just doesn’t have the monopoly it used to.
Three bottle pairings you’re loving right now at Bottega
I’m really enjoying Tasmanian wines, in particular the Kate Hill Pinot Noir, which pairs beautifully with our veal ossobuco cappelletti with porcini crumb and celeriac purée. It’s a great cool-climate pinot that complements the richness of the dish. Another favourite is Kooyong Estate Chardonnay. It’s a perfectly balanced, mid-weight chardonnay with light toast, great paired with our baked banana prawns, XO ‘Italiano’ and fresh herbs.
And then there’s the Pieropan Soave. I have a love for a good Soave, particularly this one, which I find myself ordering again and again. It’s savoury, beautifully made, and consistent. I love it with our pan-roasted King Dory, served with black lentils, Jerusalem artichokes and lemon citronette.
