From working at Michelin-starred Locanda Locatelli to opening his own restaurants in Melbourne, Fabio Magliano moved to Australia in 2014 and brings his Amalfi Coast charm and hospitality to our shores.
The sommelier and co-owner of two restaurants Buono and Sincero – which have been operating for the past five years in Melbourne – spoke to The Write Drop for our At The Bar series.
He worked at London’s famous and now defunct Michelin-starred Locanda Locatelli where he served the late Queen Elizabeth II. Fabio now brings his skill and passion to Melbourne’s food scene.
MY CITY
I love Melbourne because it’s the most diverse city in Australia when it comes to food – whether you feel like an Asian bar or a classic French brasserie, there’s so much variety. Community also makes Melbourne special. Buono & Sincero has been open for five years now, and in that time, we’ve built a really strong connection with locals.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
A dish I always remember is one I ate at Michelin-starred restaurant near my hometown in Salerno, called Il Papavero. It was pasta mista al polpo with potato foam. It’s a humble, traditional dish – something peasants used to make with leftover pasta, a mix of different shapes. At Il Papavero, they cooked the mixed pasta in octopus ragù, finished it with a light potato foam, and added basil oil and anchovy oil. The flavours reminded me of my Nonna’s cooking, but the presentation was incredible. I still see that dish in my mind. It was simple, but the way they put it together was really special.
FAVOURITE BAR
In Melbourne, it’s Eau de Vie. I love everything about it – the concept, the service, the cocktails, the way the menu is designed. It’s tucked away down a laneway with no signage, so it feels like a bit of a secret. I always order the Zabaglione Espresso Martini. You can choose vodka, rum or tequila as the base, and it’s topped with a saffron and vanilla mousse frozen with liquid nitrogen. There’s a bit of theatre when they bring it out, but the drink is really well balanced. I’m not usually an espresso martini drinker, but this one is unique. It’s the only place I order it.
DRINK THAT DESCRIBES YOU
The Negroni. It might seem simple – just gin, Campari and vermouth – but to make a good one, you have to get the balance exactly right. Even how long you stir it with ice matters. Too strong or too watery, and it’s ruined. If you don’t measure carefully, one ingredient will overpower the others. That’s why I’m like a Negroni – I’m all about the details. It’s a classic cocktail that takes precision, and that’s how I like to approach things.
BEST HANGOVER CURE
My hangover cure starts the night before – with the last drink I had. In the morning, I’ll have the same drink again. It helps your body feel like it’s still in the night, and somehow it recharges you.
BEST INTERSTATE BAR
Paloma Wine Bar in Burleigh Heads, Queensland. I had one of the best Negronis there. The staff really know what they’re doing, and the wine list is beautiful.
OVERSEAS BAR
My favourite bar in the world is in Rome. It’s called Freni e Frizioni, which means “brakes and clutches,” because it used to be a mechanic’s workshop. Now it’s a beautiful and very popular bar – it made the World’s 50 Best Bars list. It’s always full of people, with a great mix of generations. It’s a bit funky, but also cosy – it has a really cool vibe. In Italy, we’re big on aperitivo, and this place does it really well. From around 5 to 8pm, you get happy hour with a great buffet full of food, and the cocktails are amazing. My favourite drink there is one of their signatures, called the Phi-Mex. It’s a twist on the Tommy’s Margarita, made with mezcal, calamansi (a type of mandarin from the Philippines), bell pepper, tamarind and agave syrup. It’s super fresh, with citrus notes and a hint of green capsicum. The balance is perfect – definitely one of the best cocktails I’ve ever had.
FAVOURITE WINE
I don’t have one favourite wine, because I love trying different wines. For me, wine isn’t like supporting a football team or picking a favourite movie – it’s too broad for that. Especially in Europe, every little region has something special, and I like to explore as much as I can. When I choose a wine, it depends on my mood, the weather and the food I’m eating. Some people always order the same thing, but I like going outside the comfort zone. When I go to a place like France-Soir, I always ask for something different – usually something no one else is ordering. Their wine list is like a Bible, and I love the challenge of finding something new.
A bottle I enjoyed recently is Timorasso. I love indigenous grape varieties and wines that are a bit different. Timorasso makes a beautiful white wine. The one we have in the restaurant is from Guasti Clemente in Piedmont. It’s aged for eight months in French oak and sits somewhere between a Chenin Blanc and a Riesling – still fresh, but with extra depth. You get smoky notes like Riesling, and lovely yellow peach flavours too.
We opened a bottle a couple of weeks ago at home with my partner Cinzia and friends. It’s always a great wine to enjoy with good company.
FAVOURITE WINERY
One of my favourite wineries is Podere San Michele, a small producer in San Vincenzo, just outside Bolgheri in Tuscany. It’s owned by a friend of mine, and like me, he puts a lot of passion and attention to detail into what he does. He produces small quantities, and the quality is amazing. He makes just one white wine – a Viognier, using a local variety that’s popular in the region. When we visited, we tasted a bottle from 2005. It had beautiful notes of acacia honey and candied lemon, but still felt fresh. It was medium to full-bodied, and a stunning wine. I was there with my mum and sister, and even though they’re not in the wine world, they were so impressed. It was a special experience.
NEXT DESTINATION
My next holiday is to Western Australia. We’ll definitely check out a few wineries and restaurants while we’re there. There’s a fine dining restaurant in Perth called 20 Seats that I’m really looking forward to. I’ve been to Margaret River before, but this time I’m hoping to visit Voyager Estate. It’s one of my favourite wineries in the area.
https://buonoparkdale.com.au/about/
