You’ll find Executive Chef Matteo Tine at Collingwood’s Orlo – here he riffs on his Sicilian culinary heritage as much as he turns the tavola on what you might expect of Italian cuisine. At Orlo, he’s wrapping chicken in red gum, devilishly turning the charm on with charcoal and brings a Mediterranean cuisine with a difference – it’s electric, it’s different, it’s oh so inner-city Melbourne via viva Italia of course.
Housed in an historic 19th century building, Orlo’s interiors have been generously reimagined by Kate McCluskey Kyle, director of McCluskey Studio who brings a joyful aesthetic to the European inspired diner.
Matteo Tine spoke to The Write Drop for our At The Bar series.
MY CITY
Melbourne has to be one of the most, if not the most, special cities in the world. The diversity this city offers is truly unique. No two days are the same, especially in the culinary world. Melbourne has a deep connection to Italy and Italian food, thanks to the many immigrants who brought their invaluable knowledge and traditions. We are so blessed to be surrounded by it.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
I was 10 or 11, helping my Nonno at the gelati shop in Carlton. We had to pick up some sugar from my uncle’s pastry shop, and on the way, my Nonno and I stopped for lunch. It was in North Melbourne, at an eatery called Don Camillo—your typical Italian eatery, looking like something straight out of a mafia movie. We sat at a round table at the back of the restaurant, and of course, we had VIP treatment. There was no ordering; instead, a plate of penne arrabbiata, a bowl of hot olives, and pane di casa hit the table. The spice of the fresh chilli was addictive, the passata perfectly sweet and salty, the pasta cooked al dente with just the right amount of salt in the water, and the parmigiana mountain on top was insatiable. The marinated olives and bread were simple but everything you’d want in a vinegary mouthful… Geez, my mouth is watering just thinking about this dish. I don’t know if it was the nostalgia of the restaurant, the company of my Nonno, or just a really good meal, but it was one of those moments in my life where I felt proud to be who I was—a first generation Australian-Italian.
FAVOURITE BAR
I really enjoy Arlechin. It’s cute, with a well-thought-out cocktail list and an extensive wine selection. I usually start with the humble Negroni, then move my way from Riesling to Rosé to Pinot Noir. They’re open late, so it’s the perfect spot to meet up with some hospo friends and share a late-night pasta.
DRINK THAT DESCRIBES YOU
I’d say I’m definitely a Negroni—simple and to the point, and after three, you start to feel like an expert on everything. Definitely me!
BEST HANGOVER
Just keep drinking… But no, really, I’m an Aspro Clear, Berocca, pizza, and Netflix kinda guy. I’m terrible with a hangover.
BEST INTERSTATE BAR
I recently lived in Byron Bay before moving back to Melbourne. I’d say it’s a tie between Bar Heather, with their half-martinis, late-night feeds, and excellent wine list—it’s so cute and comforting, you don’t want to leave—and Rae’s in Wategos, which has to be one of the best spots to hang out on a sunny day after a swim. I’d sit there every second day, Paloma in hand, and just be content. The food is cracking, too, of course.
OVERSEAS BAR
I venture to Bali quite often, and there are so many places I love to visit. The cocktail scene in Bali is really taking off, but I think Bar Vera is doing a fantastic job with unique cocktails. You can’t go past their spritz range when it’s super humid outside, and they have great food offerings. I also love going to La Plancha on Double Six Beach, drinking margaritas, and watching the sunset.
FAVOURITE WINE
Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2014—I had this drop at Rockpool in Sydney. It was a life-changing moment. I can still taste it. Yum.
FAVOURITE WINERY
One Day Estate in the Bellarine Peninsula is a fun place to spend a nice Sunday—good wine, tasty food, and live music. How can you go wrong? If we’re talking about great overnight stays, I’d say Stones in the Yarra Valley is definitely one of my favourites. It’s like staying in a Tuscan villa—open fireplace, bottle of wine, and a cheese board. That’s my cup of tea. The rooms are super cute and comfortable, and the breakfast in the morning is spot on. The breakfast calzone is ace.
NEXT DESTINATION
My wedding is in June this year at a beautiful beachfront property in Bali, so I’m really looking forward to that. For the honeymoon, I’m hoping for a Sardinia-Sicily road trip. I also need to do some homework for a possible book I’m working on.
What Makes Dishes at Orlo Different from Anything You’ve Done Before?
When you think of Italian food, you think of the two big P’s—pizza and pasta—but this is definitely not your typical pizza or pasta joint. It’s great to think outside the box and get elemental with the food, cooking over red gum and charcoal. I’m having fun reimagining some classics, but there are others I just can’t bring myself to change.
What Do You Love About Creating Dishes, and How Does the Menu Reflect You as a Chef?
I think my first true love (apart from my mother) would be food and how it makes you feel. It’s great to create a dish that looks fantastic—we definitely aim for that—but it’s even more impressive when a dish and its ingredients can evoke emotions. I like to cook food with feeling; I’m an emotional guy.
A MUST TRY AT ORLO:
Definitely try the Devil’s Chicken, or Pollo alla Diavola—marinated with fermented chilli and barbecued over red gum. Life changing.
