In her new book Celebrating Champagne: A wine for all seasons, Australian author and champagne connoisseur Sally Hillman gives us plenty of reasons to pour a glass of bubbles every day. Part recipe book, expert guide and coffee table book, Hillman shares her love of French cooking and pairs her dishes with champagne and guides us on how to choose our next bottle.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
Gravlax and steak frites at France-Soir in Toorak is always a good idea. I remember being taken there by foodie family friends when it first opened. I was instantly captivated by the buzzing atmosphere, the waiters speaking in French, and the elegant simplicity of the food. I didn’t know it at the time, but France-Soir was my first taste of Paris – right in the heart of Melbourne.
FAVOURITE BAR
Abysse Bar & Terrace – Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, Champagne –Situated on the third floor of this luxurious hotel in the heart of Champagne, the view of the Vallee de la Marne is breathtaking, no matter the season. I savoured a beautiful grower-producer champagne perfectly paired with smoked salmon, caviar, blinis, and delicate condiments. As I sat there, immersed in the stunning panorama, the entire experience felt like a perfect celebration of the region’s elegance and charm.
WHAT TYPE OF CHAMPAGNE DESCRIBES YOU
A Brut Nature, Blanc de Blancs champagne. Why? A Blanc de Blancs is a white champagne made from white grapes – hence the name – most usually Chardonnay. The Chardonnay grape brings a freshness, finesse and elegance, with floral and citrus notes, to champagne blends. Chardonnay-based cuvées have the greatest ageing potential, and they often develop complex nutty aromas and a biscuity creaminess.
As a Brut Nature (with no additional sugar) it offers a pure and unfiltered expression of its terroir – in other words, it’s unapologetically authentic.
FAVOURITE WINERY
My heart truly belongs to the grower-producers. Their champagnes are deeply personal expressions of the land, crafted with care and character. What also stands out across the region is the warmth and generosity of its people. The hospitality in Champagne is exceptional – it’s like being welcomed into your best friend’s home – everyone is eager to share their knowledge, their stories and, of course, their wines. It’s this spirit of welcome that makes every visit unforgettable.
FAVOURITE CHAMPAGNE
There are many champagnes that linger in my memory — from a bottle shared over a cheese platter with close friends on a relaxed Friday evening, to a beautifully chilled magnum opened during Christmas lunch with my family. What champagne does so effortlessly is bring an unmistakable sense of ease and celebration when you’re surrounded by your favourite people. Of course, the champagne itself is always exquisite, but it’s the company and the joy in the room that make those moments unforgettable. That’s the magic of champagne: it turns life’s simple pleasures into lasting memories.
NEXT DESTINATION
Somewhere where the water is a brilliant shade of azure and melts into the sky — perhaps French Polynesia. After a period of intense work and creative focus, I’m dreaming of rest, warmth, and beauty in a place where inspiration comes simply from being still. And as it’s a French territory, I know all things French — including a chilled glass of champagne — won’t be far away.
TELL US YOUR INTEREST IN FRENCH FOOD AND CULTURE
My paternal grandmother and I shared a very special bond, and somehow, I began calling her Marmour – my own version of ‘my love’. She would often read Eloise, Madeline and Babar the Elephant to me when I was little, so my love of all things French was instilled early on. When I started learning French in secondary school, the language came naturally to me. I was good at it and loved studying it. Our education also included elements of French culture and we were so lucky to have a French native – Madame Smetena – as our teacher. I was captivated by their deep appreciation for food and the way every meal is treated as an occasion. Paired with my parents’ love of hosting fabulous dinner parties and my own passion for cooking (which began at age seven), I had truly found my happy place.
THE MOST RECENT BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE YOU OPENED & WHY
A bottle of L’Assemblage by Champagne Pertois-Moriset to celebrate signing off on my book. After months of dedication and detail, that moment deserved something truly special — and this elegant, expressive cuvée felt like the perfect way to mark such a personal milestone.
WHAT DO PEOPLE OFTEN MISUNDERSTAND ABOUT CHAMPAGNE
Is it ‘Champagne’ or ‘champagne’? Well, the answer is – both! Champagne is the place and champagne the delicious effervescent drink. Always remember, champagne comes only from Champagne, France.
HOW SHOULD WE PAIR CHAMPAGNE
I believe the key is to understand the blend or assemblage behind the champagne — knowing its character helps guide the pairing. Treat champagne like any other wine and follow classic pairing principles: acidity with richness, balance of flavours, and complementary textures. When you do that, you’re unlikely to go wrong. And no, a higher price tag doesn’t always guarantee a better pairing — it’s more about matching the style and profile of the champagne to the food.
FAVOURITE CHAMPAGNE HOUSES
My favourites come from the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay — a remarkable terroir known for its diversity and richness. The Champagne region boasts 30 different soil types, with 15 of them found in the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay, which contributes to the versatility and exceptional quality of its champagnes. These wines are delicious, expressive, and consistently capture the heart of the terroir.
FAVOURITE FRENCH RECIPES FROM THE BOOK
All the recipes I have shared in this book are the ones that have filled my own home with warmth, laughter and love. They are the meals I’ve shared with my family, the dishes that have made their way into countless dinner parties, and the ones I’ve found myself returning to over and over again. Some are cherished family favourites, some have been inspired by travels to France, and others are simply the result of my respect for fresh, seasonal produce.
THE BOOK IN THREE WORDS
Approachable, informative and inspiring.
WHAT SPARKED YOUR LOVE AFFAIR WITH CHAMPAGNE
My love for champagne can be traced back to a memory of my maternal grandfather, who worked in the rural stockyards around Kyneton, Victoria. A lifelong teetotaller, he was known for sipping lemonade at the pub while the other men had their after-work drinks. But there was one joyful exception: champagne. For family celebrations, he would raise a glass, insisting that champagne wasn’t really “drinking” — it was for marking life’s special moments. That early association with joy, celebration, and connection stayed with me. Champagne became my drink of choice for the same reasons — the way it makes you feel: light, happy, and uplifted. And perhaps it was always written in the stars — I share my birthday with Saint Vincent, the patron saint of winegrowers, whose feast day is honoured each year in Champagne. It feels only fitting that Champagne became such a central part of my story.
A CHAMPAGNE FOR EVERY SEASON – WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND
A crisp autumn evening. A Côte des Bar champagne that is fuller, more concentrated, with body and depth that mirror the richness of the season. These champagnes, with their intoxicating hints of red wine and the hearty embrace of Pinot noir and Meunier, pair exquisitely with the woodsy aromas of autumn. Their minerality and mouth-watering acidity cut through the richness of creamy dishes, providing a zesty contrast to the comforting decadence of an extra-cheesy sandwich or a rich stew.
A sunny spring lunch. A Blanc de Noirs made with 100% Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne: rich and generous, with herbal notes and a delicate spice that feels perfectly at home alongside the earthy freshness of early spring vegetables. The fruity elegance of a champagne rosé, with its subtle tannic grip, is the ideal partner to creamy hollandaise-topped asparagus or vibrant peas, basil and tarragon.
A wintry fireside dinner. As the mercury dips Blanc de Noir from the Montagne de Reims – whether it’s the bold expressive Pinot noir or the delightful Meunier (or perhaps a glorious blend of both) are perfect companions for the earthy savoury delights we crave in winter. They work in great harmony with roasted meats, slow-braised dishes and the moreish golden goodness of rich cheesy gougères.
A MOMENT THAT SURPRISED YOU DURING THE MAKING OF THE BOOK
Realising — again and again — that champagne truly does pair with just about every kind of food. Whether we were tasting something rich, salty, sweet or simple, champagne always elevated the experience. It never failed to surprise and delight, and that’s exactly what I love most about what I do — it still makes me smile every time.
What also made me smile was how much everyone loved the recipes. These are dishes I’ve been cooking for family and friends for years and seeing them so warmly received — with genuine enthusiasm for how delicious they were — brought me real joy. It felt like sharing a part of home with a whole new audience.
