At The Bar with CIRCL Head Sommelier Carl Hayes

MY CITY

I’ve lived across Australia and New Zealand, but Melbourne is the place that truly feels like home. There’s always something to do, yet it stays genuine and grounded. The people are curious, creative and unpretentious. Melbourne just has an effortless vibe I can’t imagine living without.

FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY

This takes me back about 20 years, but I’ll never forget the soft-shell crab with chilli sorbet at Vinnies in Herne Bay, Auckland. I was just beginning to explore the dining scene, and that dish opened my eyes to how exciting food could be. It was completely unexpected and completely exhilarating.

FAVOURITE BAR

Secco & Co in Fitzroy. It’s one of Melbourne’s better‑kept secrets, with a solid little wine list. Normally I’ll sit on a Birra Moretti, but ask Jamie for a salted caramel espresso martini and you won’t leave.

DRINK THAT DESCRIBES YOU

Definitely an Eastside. I’d like to think I’m a bit classic at heart, but I try to keep it fresh and bright, a little lively. I’m great at the start of the evening, but even better towards the end.

BEST HANGOVER CURE

My best hangover cure is 500 ml of coconut water, 500 ml of black coffee, two Panadol and two Nurofen, and then going back to sleep.

BEST INTERSTATE BAR

Mechanics Bar in Northbridge, Perth. It opened just as I arrived in Perth in 2012 and it’s been a must‑go‑to every time I visit. I have so many great memories in that bar and the cocktails are next level: creative without being weird, and the staff have always been so on point.

OVERSEAS BAR

Learn the language (or at least the basics, I’ve made that mistake). I’m always up for dealer’s choice, just let them know you’re from the industry.

FAVOURITE WINE

2023 Riccitelli Sémillon Invader, a wild‑fermented Sémillon from the Uco Valley in Mendoza, aged in large‑format neutral oak. It was fun and unusual, complex but approachable. It didn’t take itself too seriously and was just downright delicious.

FAVOURITE WINERY

You must visit Rippon in Wanaka. It’s an almost spiritual experience.

Tell us about your wine beginnings in NZ and how it inspired your palate in your early days trying wine?

I started my wine journey working in winery restaurants, so my first real experiences were with thoughtful, quality wines rather than just casual drinking. That early exposure taught me to pay attention to what a wine is trying to say, not just whether I personally like it. Running wine tours in my early twenties pushed me to strip away the noise and explain tasting in a way that felt honest and approachable. Over time, that’s shaped how I think about my palate, it’s less about chasing prestige and more about asking, “What am I tasting here, and why does it work?” I also step outside my own preference and ask whether a guest will connect with a wine. To me, that’s the core of what we do, understanding our guests, listening to what they need, and finding wines that make sense for them, not just for me.

Do you have a favourite NZ varietal?

Putting my hometown roots in Hawke’s Bay aside, I’d have to say Central Otago Pinot Noir. It has power, structure and finesse in a way that feels genuinely distinctive.

What you’re bringing to the list at CIRCL and what’s the focus here in your hands?

Right now, my focus is on finding accessible, great‑value and exciting wines. We’ve been strong on Burgundy and Champagne, and I’m excited to explore lesser‑known producers and varieties, like Marselan from China, Pinot Noir from Chile or Petit Arvine from northern Italy. These might not be a guest’s first choice, but sharing that discovery is what I want to bring to the list at CIRCL.

Is there a region in the world right now that’s producing wines you are super impressed with – where and why?

I’ve got a few. Look to Germany and Chile for Pinot Noir, you can find incredible value and quality from both. China is also worth paying attention to. They fly under the radar here and it’s not somewhere we naturally think of drinking wine from, but the quality will surprise you (and surprisingly, it’s not cheap). Finally, don’t overlook South Africa. We often forget them, but their wines are dynamic, expressive and seriously good value right now.

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