The Melbourne institution D.O.C Osteria on Lygon Street is back; with a rebrand [formerly D.O.C Espresso] and a shiny new flagship that’s had a makeover inside too. Helming the kitchen is Executive Chef Tom Jones-Davies – the Welshman with Italian bloodlines who brings the best of Italian cuisine and staple food to the table.
He talks to The Write Drop for our At The Bar series.
MY CITY
I’m originally from a small village in southwest Wales called Nantgaredig—four pubs, no shops, stunning landscapes, and big personalities. Now, Melbourne is my city, a place where cultures amalgamate, and everyone can be a part of it no matter where you’re from.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
My first kitchen job was at a local Italian restaurant. Coming from a small rural town, I hadn’t had much exposure to imported ingredients or fine cuisine. Later, I moved to London to do a stage at Le Gavroche, where I was treated to an unforgettable meal with wine pairing. The standout dish was Coquilles St. Jacques Grillées et Minestrone de Palourdes—seared scallop with clam minestrone. I wasn’t a seafood fan before, but that meal made me fall in love with food and cemented my passion.
FAVOURITE BAR
Bar Margaux—go to drink black velvet, a mix of Guinness and champagne; two of my favourites. It’s a classic hospo spot in Melbourne, perfect for late-night drinks after long shifts, with great food and one of the best burgers in town.
DRINK THAT DESCRIBES YOU
A Charlie Chaplin—classic, strong, sweet, with punchy flavours and lots of laughter.
BEST HANGOVER CURE
A greasy panino with mortadella, provolone, a runny fried egg, and a British twist—a slice of black pudding. Washed down with a “grappino” (espresso and grappa).
BEST INTERSTATE BAR
Bar Copains in Sydney—fantastic food, wine, and drinks, and a perfect spot for a leisurely lunch.
HOT TIP FOR AN OVERSEAS BAR
The French House in Soho, London—an old-school pub filled with character, a favourite of Fergus Henderson. They serve crisp Breton cider, French beers, and incredible food by Neil Borthwick upstairs.
FAVOURITE WINE
For Italian, I love a Primitivo, especially the Orion Primitivo we currently have at Osteria. For French, it has to be Burgundy—Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet is my splurge pick when having lunch with a good friend.
FAVOURITE WINERY
Locally, Merli Estate is my favourite. The owner, Ennio, is a D.O.C regular and produces an incredible Pinot Noir—light in colour, full in flavour. He even makes one of my favourite grappas, gifting me a bottle now and then. Abroad, it’s Teo Costa in Piedmont’s Langhe region; their Barbera and Nebbiolo bottles are flawless.
NEXT DESTINATION
Italy and Taiwan. While Italian food is a big part of my life, I’m passionate about global cuisines, especially Asian. I’d love to spend time in Taiwan, exploring night markets and street food.
Tell us about the new menu offering at D.O.C Osteria
At D.O.C, we’re all about quality. Our menu was designed around classic Italian simplicity with a contemporary twist, using the best ingredients we can find, whether imported Italian or locally sourced.
What do you bring to the menu that’s uniquely all your approach given Italian food is…Italian food
Though I have a Welsh background, my grandmother is Italian, so I grew up around Italian culture and cuisine. I aim to honour regional Italian dishes with a modern touch inspired by the kitchens I’ve worked in, always focusing on exceptional Italian produce. For instance, our cappelletti is a fresh take on prosciutto e panna with the addition of leeks, a Welsh symbol.
FAVE DISH RIGHT NOW
The eggplant cotoletta, slow-cooked and marinated, then breaded and fried, served with a salsa rosa made with roasted almonds, grilled capsicum, olive oil, and quality aceto bianco. It’s become a hit since we opened.
THREE FOOD AND DRINK PAIRINGS WE SHOULD TRY AT D.O.C
Antipasti — A spritz, simply because antipasti and aperitivi are meant to be.
Sicilian Olives — A glass of bubbles (Prosecco DOC) or a clean dry white (Gavi DOC).
The linguine – always a glass of Pinot Grigio DOC.
WHEN DID YOU FIRST DISCOVER D.O.C
I first heard about D.O.C four years ago, when I was working in regional Victoria. My then-boss took me to Melbourne and insisted we go to D.O.C, saying it was the best pasta in the city. Four years later, I’m proud to be the executive chef, excited for all we have planned.
