You’ll find Yamagen; a cool new Japanese restaurant within the chic hotel walls of QT Melbourne; with an entry point via Portland Lane in the CBD. It’s where Japan’s Head Chef Yosuke Hatanaka brings his serious culinary skills to the kitchen with plenty of bold difference. This is izakaya with a skilful touch; where technical precision reigns; delivering Japanese cuisine you’ll be coming back for more.
Yamagen Hatanaka spoke to The Write Drop for our At The Bar series.
MY CITY
Melbourne has range. You can have a serious omakase, drink natural wine in a back alley bar, then somehow end up dancing on a rooftop before midnight.
I love that I can finish service at Yamagen still smelling slightly of binchotan, and five minutes later be upstairs at Rooftop at QT Melbourne with a Yamazaki Whisky in hand looking over the skyline. It’s a city that doesn’t judge you for that transition.
It’s relaxed, but the standards are high. People care deeply about what they’re eating and drinking – they just don’t always want to talk about it. That balance between curiosity and effortlessness is rare, and it’s what makes Melbourne such a great place to cook.
FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY
During my training in Tokyo, I had a piece of charcoal-grilled nodoguro that changed my brain chemistry. Crispy skin. Perfect fat rendering. Seasoned so precisely it felt measured with a microscope. No garnish, no drama. Just technique and confidence. Training in a three Michelin-star kitchen teaches you that “simple” is actually terrifying. Every cut of the knife matters. Every second on the grill matters. I still cook with that precision in mind.
FAVOURITE BAR
I like somewhere you can enjoy quality without pretension. Rooftop at QT Melbourne is a favourite. The atmosphere is relaxed, but the drinks program is serious. That balance works for me.
DRINK THAT DESCRIBES YOU
Japanese whisky. Looks calm. Hits later.
BEST HANGOVER CURE
Miso soup with clams. Rice. Pickles. It’s Chef’s ancient electrolyte formula.
BEST INTERSTATE BAR
In Sydney, Maybe Sammy. They take technique seriously but don’t take themselves too seriously. That’s my favourite combination. Precision with personality.
OVERSEAS BAR
If you’re in Tokyo, don’t Google “best cocktail bar.” Walk into a tiny Ginza whisky bar with eight seats. Sit at the counter. Let the bartender decide. Don’t rush them. Respect the ritual. That’s where you’ll taste something unforgettable.
FAVOURITE WINE
Burgundy after service with friends. Someone’s still in apron pants. Someone’s half asleep. The bottle gets better as the conversation gets louder. That’s the good stuff.
FAVOURITE WINERY
Yarra Yering. Structured, elegant, restrained – nothing overworked or trying too hard. I relate to that. It’s wine that doesn’t need to shout to be heard.
NEXT DESTINATION
Kyushu, Japan. Onsen, incredible seafood and local shochu. It’s the kind of place you go to reset your palate and your pace – and come back sharper.
